Development of a method for measurement of fabric three-dimensional drape and studies on influencing factors

Abstract

<span style="font-size:14.0pt;mso-bidi-font-size:12.0pt;font-family:" times="" new="" roman","serif""="" lang="EN-IN">A new method of measuring drape using a modified drape meter is proposed where the elegance of drape is more effectively observed in the elevation view of a draped fabric specimen. In the new method, apart from the top projection, the elevation projection along warp and weft directions of draped specimen mounted on the drape meter disc is taken using

<span style="font-size:14.0pt;mso-bidi-font-size:12.0pt;font-family:" times="" new="" roman","serif""="" lang="EN-IN">additional light source. The new three-dimensional drape coefficient (3-D DC) calculated from top projection and weft-way elevation projection is capable of differentiating the samples with different drape appearance but same conventional drape coefficient. This 3-D DC has better correlation with most of the drape describing parameters compared to the conventional drape coefficient. Studies with cotton shirting fabrics show that with the increase in picks per inch, the drape coefficient increases, reaches a maximum value and thereafter it decreases. In the case of polyester/cotton blended fabrics, an increasing

<span style="font-size:14.0pt;mso-bidi-font-size:12.0pt;font-family:" times="" new="" roman","serif""="" lang="EN-IN">trend in drape coefficient is observed. Dyeing decreases the value of drape coefficient. Studies also show that the DC % decreases with time and that the sample reaches stabilized condition after 5 min of sample mounting. Seamed fabrics have stabilized drape appearance and DC %. Increase in the number of seams in the fabric increases the fabric stiffness and hence the DC%.

</span></span></span>